Category Archives: Wear

Japanese Classic Selvedge from RPMWest




Denim has a rich history, both as fabric and as pants. Serge de Nîmes, was the original name fort the fabric, translating to “Fabric from Nîmes,” a City in southern France. Traditionally dyed with indigo, this material was first made in to pants in Genoa: The French word for which is Gênes, and the origin of the word Jeans. Today, both Denim and Jeans are a global industry that reflect the complex trade practices of globalization, although some of the best denims tend to come from Japan.  Some of the best jeans are made in the USA from that Japanese import, and that’s exactly what RPMWest did with this pair.
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Alternative Apparel: Eco-Friendly and Comfortable

While I was ordering my Whites Boots from Animal Traffic in Portland Oregon, I had a look through some of the clothing they offered. One brand that stood out to me: Alternative Apparel. We reached out to the company to learn more, and they sent us a few garments to try out. From their hoodies to shirts, their fabrics had fantastic texture and color, but their label carried an important message:

Make a difference with what you wear.

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Check out this awesome Raw Denim Shirt

 Over on the rawdenim subreddit, denim enthusiast and hobbyist Zach (reddit name dorksquad) posted a personal project. Using two yards of a 10 ounce black warp denim with red selvedge ID sourced from Pacific Blue Denim, this shirt has great texture and design. Selvedge ID tags are exposed on the sleeves and a bit on the pocket’s sides. Continue reading Check out this awesome Raw Denim Shirt

White’s Custom Boots

I got a pretty amazing birthday gift this year. Our parents decided to spend most of their spring out in Portland Oregon to spend time with Wefty and his family. Moving from the suburbs to a downtown apartment resulted in a lot more walking than my parents are used to, and my Dad looked into getting himself a new pair of boots to help with the foot fatigue. He ended up at Animal Traffic, which stocks the ever famous Red Wing Boots, and the somewhat less-known White’s Boots made in Spokane Washington. After relieving his own foot pains, and knowing that I often have similar problems, Dad decided to get me a pair as a birthday gift when I came out for a visit at the end of May.

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Heebee Jeans: Sanforized Fit and Initial Impressions

Heebee Jeans Fit Pic

 

Hello, my name is Jon. I am a new contributor to this blog, and am extremely excited to be here. Wefty and Mash have selected me to review a fresh pair of raw selvedge denim jeans to contain my legs in. I will be documenting the fading process here, as well as posting some other content related to the wear patterns of denim and leather.

Continue reading Heebee Jeans: Sanforized Fit and Initial Impressions

The Billy Reid Shiloh Shawl

One of my favorite stores in Wefty and my home town of Charlotte NC is Taylor, Richard’s & Conger. They have a great selection of menswear from casual to formal, and I don’t think a single item they carry is anything less than top notch. While TRC carries super-premium products including Kiton, they also carry a wide selection of items from designer Billy Reid. The last time I was in the store, I picked up one of them. And after work the other day (pardon the five-o’clock shadow), I thought I’d snap a few photos.

The neckline is the most interesting part of a truly comfortable sweater. Other than the leather fasteners (which I believe are top-grain), the entire garment is made of pure cotton in three textures. A french cotton terry adorns the interior, lending warmth and softness. The exterior is a cotton twill, while the neckline is a cotton yarn knit.

A great aspect about this shawl  is that you can still  show off a shirt underneath it, and contrasting textures are nice. Here I am wearing a one of the very warm Klaxon Howl cotton shirts underneath the shawl. With weather as crazy as it has been here in North Carolina this week, this outfit with a light overcoat definately works great for anywhere between 20 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. And shedding layers is easy enough to go even higher.

Laundered properly, I expect this all cotton shawl to last for years– And hopefully look every bit as good then as it does today. Dress up for formal wear or down for casual, it’s a great piece to have in your wardrobe. Check this and other items out over at Billy Reid, but be sure to know where your garment is made. This particular one is from Peru, but other items are made in Italy, the US, and many other locations.

Cheers,
Mash

Heebee Jeans: Unsanforized Shrink Test

Heebee Jeans, Exposed Rivets

Last year, Wefty wrote a review of Heebee Jeans. This extremely small production company founded by Heber Saurey in 2010 uses limited stock Japanese selvage to make an interesting pair of jeans. I say interesting because of a few special trademarks: Firstly, the button holes on crotch are sewn through both layers of fabric, exposing the black buttons to the surroundings. The leather patch is made of sharkskin, and while it is a standard size, it is oriented vertically. There is a small, stitched owl poking out of the back right pocket. All of this has special meaning to the designer. In his own words:

The owl logo on the inside of the waistband is derived from a tarot card called the Heirophant. He’s an Owl because Owls’ represent wisdom and they are mysterious. The Heirophant is wise and is a judge and authority. This owl is an authority holding from the book of Jeans. which are golden in the book…

Heebee Jeans TrademarkHeebee is denim spiritualism. Heebees are your soul and like The Picture of Dorian Gray, everything you wear them through shows up on them. You take care of them like your temple, do not wash them traditionally. Even washing is a ritual, like baptism.

-Heber Saurey, February 2013
Eloquent words for a beautiful product. And speaking of the ritual of washing, I recently gave one of these pairs a shrink test. Here’s how it went. First, I turned the unworn, unsanforized pair of jeans inside out.

Next, the jeans were folded and placed in a basin. A mixture of hot water from the tap and boiling water from a tea kettle was added to the the mix, enough to saturate the denim.

I recommend weighing jeans down to keep them submerged. Here, I used a few bubble bath containers I had lying around. After an hour, you’ll notice color in the wash. Brown is mostly starch and particulates from the cotton. This 14 ounce unsanforized from Kurabo shed very little indigo to the water, although it was visible when I toweled it off later.

And the result? Shrinking in this way took an inch off the waist and inseam, as well as a half inch on most other areas, resulting in about 3% shrinkage in all dimensions. Less than I was expecting, but certainly more than sanforized denim. I’ll be posting fit pics after a bit more wear in a couple of weeks or so.

Heebee Jeans Trademark, Owl

Heebee Jeans are an interesting breed to be sure. The denim is very nice, and as Heber and his team do more production runs, we expect to see them get even better. Speaking of which, be sure to keep an eye out for an announcement very soon– Heebee is expecting to open up shop online in the coming weeks. We’ll keep you informed about it over on our Facebook page, or you can check out Heebee’s!

Heebee Jeans Sharkskin Patch, Owl Trademark
Sharkskin Patch oriented vertically enjoins an owl
poking it’s head out of the back pocket

As always, thanks for reading!
-Mash