Heebee Jeans

When my brother and I discovered Heebee Jeans online, we were a bit intrigued. Founded in 2010, Heebee Jeans focuses on making jeans out of limited-quantity Japanese selvage denim. The company prefers to use denim that is at least 14 ounces per yard. They plan to do quarterly runs of limited-edition jeans, and every run will be different. We reached out to Heebee, and they sent us a couple of pairs so we could see what they were like.

The denims that Heebee is using are interesting, and they caught my eye when I took them out of the box. The first run was a 14 ounce, red-line selvage from Kurabo Mills in Japan. The denim from this first production run is an unsanforized, shrink-to-fit fabric. When I looked more closely at the fabric from this first pair, it was softer to the touch, and was less heavily starched than what you see in many raw denims. The ring-spun yarns yielded a great pattern in the jean, and I believe they’d exhibit vertical falling and crosshatching as they fade.
The second pair came from Heebee’s second run, and was a 14.5-ounce, while-line selvage from Kaihara Mills. The interesting thing here was that the fabric was left-hand twill. For those of you who are unfamiliar, a left-hand twill is woven in the opposite direction from most denims, so when it breaks in, the yarns have a tendency to relax a little more, yielding a softer feel over time, with different fading patterns. Historically, Levi’s used right-hand twill while Lee used left-hand twill. Today, there are only a handful of companies that still use left-hand twill denim, so I was happily surprised to see that Heebee had selected such an interesting fabric.
Aside from their denim choices, here are some details you should know about Heebee Jeans:
  • Sharkskin patch: The patch on the back is vertically oriented, and is made of shark skin. According to Heebee Creator, Heber Saurey, the patch on a pair from his first run in 2010 shows very little signs of wear, but has developed a unique patina that comes from the choice of this interesting leather.
  • Black rivets and buttons: All the buttons and rivets are smooth and painted black. Over time, these pieces of hardware will fade to copper and brass. Heebee uses rivets in all the traditional places, including the back pockets. They also feature a rivet at the bottom of the fly.
  • Exposed-button fly: This is one of the more unique items about the jean. the buttons are punched all the way through the fly, meaning that you’ll see the buttons on the front of the pant while you’re wearing them.
  • The Owl: The company’s logo is modeled after the Heirophant Tarot card, and is full of symbolism. As a nod to this logo, there’s an embroidered owel perched on a needle, which hides in the back pocket of the jean. Because the embroidery is risen up, it’s likely to impact how the jean fades, leaving a mark that would become more apparent with time. 

Heebee jeans do appear to run a little bigger than what you’ll typically see. The size 30 measured a true waist of about 33.5, but was shrink-to-fit and would probably shrink at least 1 inch after washing. The size 32 measured a true waist of 36, and because it is sanforized, would likely only shrink minimally. Given these measurements, you’ll probably want to size down if you want to try out a pair of these jeans. We’re not sure what Heebee has in mind for its next run, but the fabric choices that the company has made so far will leave me interested in what they have coming out next. 

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5 thoughts on “Heebee Jeans”

    1. For those details, you’ll have to contact Heebee directly. Their Facebook or Twitter would be a good place to ask. From what we have been told, these are just referred to as their “first production” and “second production.”

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