About AldenIn 1884, Charles Alden founded a shoe company in Middleborough, Mass. Today, it’s one of the only remaining shoe companies to still hand-craft their shoes in the United States. They have a reputation for creating boots and shoes of amazing quality, sourcing their leathers from specialty tanneries, including the Horween Factory in Chicago. Many U.S.-based shoe manufacturers closed their doors or sent their production overseas to reduce costs in the last few decades; somehow, Alden managed to keep running here. Their shoes aren’t cheap, but they are worth every penny.
For those of you who are fans of Indiana Jones, you might recognize that their Indy Boot was the shoe of choice for Harrison Ford’s character in the movies. While Alden has some standard styles (like the Indy Boot) that they continuously manufacture, they also work with smaller, independent businesses to custom-craft small-batch orders of limited-edition shoes.
About UnionmadeRecently, Unionmade began working with Alden to create limited-production shoes. While Alden is known for classic style and quality craftsmanship, Unionmade is known for bringing authentic American heritage to the 21st century. Their store, located in San Francisco, is a must-stop location for anyone serious about men’s clothing.
Unionmade valued the traditional craftsmanship that Alden is known for, but combines it with their own aesthetic to create a simultaneously interesting and conservative line of limited-production shoes and boots.
About the Boot
The boot is made of natural Chromexcel Leather from the Horween Factory in Chicago. The leather is made of the highest-quality cow hides from food-grade animals. The leather on this boot isn’t dyed, so the color is solely a result of the leather itself and the tanning process. Horween’s Chromexcel leathers are loaded with oils from the tanning process, creating a durable — yet supple — leather that ages beautifully.Aside from the leather, the boot itself has a couple design features worth noting. The sole of the boot is neoprene and cork. For those of you who think that neoprene is only for wetsuits, you’re sadly mistaken. Shoe companies have been using neoprene to create comfortable, durable soles since at least the 1950s. Beyond that, I live in Portland, and it’s way better at handling the weather than a leather sole could ever be.
The boot is made using the classic Goodyear Welt construction, which allows for the foot to breathe. It also has an additional 3/4 storm welt. The storm welt is the light-color piece of leather between the top of the boot and the sole that appears on the front three quarters of the boot. Originally designed to protect the foot from moisture during wet conditions, technological advances in footwear meant that the storm welt has become less prominent in modern times. Its addition is a testament to the Alden’s craftsmanship and Unionmade’s attention to detail. The shoe would not look the same without it.
Sizing
Alden sizing is a little weird. Shoes are made by stretching leather over foot-shaped wooden forms called lasts. Each last has a different proportion, which is why most shoes fit differently. In Alden’s case, they have multiple types of shoes built on multiple lasts. This boot, like the Indy Boot, is build on the Trubalance last. I usually wear a 9 or 9.5, but I had to size down to a 8.5. While some people might size down further to remove all heel slip, Alden recommends fitting the boot so that your heel is sufficiently planted while not constricting the toe area.
I’d personally recommend sizing down about half a size from your typical dress shoe size, but if in doubt, find a place that sells Aldens and try on any of the ones built on the Trubalance last. They should all fit the same, and it will give you an idea of what size to order.
Evan over at Evanhasdryboots posted some pics of my boots after about 2 months of wear. Take a look: http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_8ba8dc8d0100z8y3.html