Hello, my name is Jon. I am a new contributor to this blog, and am extremely excited to be here. Wefty and Mash have selected me to review a fresh pair of raw selvedge denim jeans to contain my legs in. I will be documenting the fading process here, as well as posting some other content related to the wear patterns of denim and leather.
This pair of Heebee Jeans
uses 14 ounce Left Hand Twill from the Kaihara Mill in Japan.
When I first received this pair, it was clear that these jeans were stiff. The denim is very rigid, and extremely starchy to begin with. This can be good for developing quick fades, but may be hard to get used to for those new to raw denim. It has a pretty normal texture at first glance, but looking closer I noticed quite a bit of hairiness and just a tiny bit of irregularity in the yarn thickness. The hairiness is likely an effect from the Left Hand Twill, as the fiber shape tends to expose more of the fiber than a right hand twill will. I’ll be curious to know how this characteristic differs from right hand twills I am used to.
When it comes to the color of the denim, it is more grey than dark. I wasn’t able to see any true “blue” in the denim, and they aren’t particularly dark either. I’m guessing this is because of the bright white weft showing through, because the indigo dipped yarns are extremely dark, possibly using a different indigo treatment than most blue jeans you see (more sulfur content?).
While the quality of the jeans is strong, I definitely disagree with some of the aesthetic choices. To some extent, these design choices interfere with the functionality of the jeans. The most obvious of these choices is the button fly, which is exposed rather than hidden like most jeans. While it is certainly a bold choice, the button holes are hard to use. Pushing buttons through three layers (two for the fly extension inside, and one on the outside piece) of extremely rigid denim is a chore. I want to be able to take my jeans off quickly and easily, and this design aspect prevents that to some extent. I am very interested to see how this changes over the first few wears: Mash says it will get better within a couple of weeks, but I remain skeptical.
Another issue is the front pockets. As with most raw denim, the pockets are too tight for me. The pocket bag fabric seems nice though, it’s a shame that I won’t be able to use them easily.
As for the fit: As you can see, they fit. Pretty well, actually.
The inseam is on the longer side, even with large double cuffs there is still some stacking occurring. While these stacks will settle down, I may end up getting them hemmed instead. While this is a straight-leg cut, I thought that the legs could be tapered a little more at first. But after wearing them a bit, I’ve started to like how they look.
The back pockets are enormous. They fit my extremely long handmade wallet (more on that in a later post) very well though, so I don’t have a problem with it. However, those who prefer not having to fish through their butt to grab their money may not care for this feature.
One thing that also threw me off was how it fits between my legs. I was able to feel that the crotch seam was off centered while I was walking which proved to be uncomfortable.
My last concern is about the rise. The front of the jeans feel just fine actually because they reach a spot on my waist that I am used to, but the rear rise seems much lower, barely getting over my butt. This makes a “plumbers crack” likely, especially because I have an occupation in building maintenance.
But despite some flaws, I am happy about wearing these jeans. Sporting solid construction and “innovative” design features, they make for a nice change of pace. I even received a compliment on them today. They will be a nice alternative to all of my other jeans. I’m determined to fade them fast, and am excited that the heavy starch will make that possible.
This pair was sent to me by Wefty + Mash, who received it to review from Heebee last year
. And I look forward to seeing what happens to them with more wear!